As we entered Vino Paradiso Wine Bar & Bistro, a hip, retro-cozy space with burnt orange walls and 60's style lights, we were welcomed with a "bonus" pour of a Prosecco from Italy. Then, with notes propped up on a music stand (the only hint that our host has another career- as a musician with the band Pink Martini) our sparkling wine "tour" guide and host Timothy Nishimoto, a master sommelier, gave us a detailed background on the traditional method of making champagne. He explained why the labor intensive and long process leads to quality sparkling wines and can command high prices. Factoid: a good riddler, the person who turns the champagne bottles 1/4 turn daily during the long process, can turn 40,000 bottles - a day!
A spin of our sparkling wine compass landed on Argentina, Austria, South Africa, Tasmania region of Australia and our own Willamette Valley as Timothy lead us through a variety of tastes. The sparklers we sampled, listed below, ranged in flavor, mouth feel and prices. My scribbled notes included "yeasty/bready" and "crisply acidic with apple and fruit notes." The prices ranged from $18-20 a bottle, the exception being the rich unctuous Soter, priced at approximately $50.
The Night’s Wines
Bodega Cruzat Brut, non-vintage from Mendoza, Argentina
Sziget Gruner Veltliner Sekt (brut) non-vintage from Burgenland, Austria
Graham Beck Brut, non-vintage from Western Cape, South Africa
Jansz Brut, non-vintage from Tasmania, Australia
Soter Brut Rose 2004 from Oregon's Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Jean-Paul Brun FRV100 Rose, demi-sec, non-vintage from Beaujolais, France
Our wine tastes were accompanied by a variety of savory offerings made by Vino Paradiso's talented chef Ian Duncan. Timothy commented that Ian has an "uncanny little science lab in his brain", and can provide wonderful foods that match beautifully with specific wines. With 40 wines available by the glass at Vino Paradiso, that’s quite a feat!
For our pairings, Chef Ian chose a “Southern-type” theme: sweet waffles with pheasant; diver scallops on blood orange slices with a roe garnish; slow roasted wild boar shoulder that had been braised with sage, onion after marinating; avocado-bacon topped bread; gorgonzola and sour cherries on crostini. The last was specifically chosen to pair with our final taste: the 100% Gamay Noir FRV100.
Cole Danehower, Northwest Palate publisher, writer and wine judge, provided some dynamic and interesting notes about the history of Oregon sparkling wines and others in the Northwest region. Oregon's first sparkling wine was made by Peter Britt in Southern Oregon in the 1880s, and in more recent times the first Oregon sparkling wine was produced in Roseburg by Richard Sommers in 1976. Cole discussed how in the global picture, Oregon and the Northwest's contribution to the worldwide share of sparkling wines is minimal, barely a ripple, but is distinctly unique, due to our soils and climate. He also stretched our brains with trivia questions and a lucky few who responded correctly and quickly received a copy of The Vintner's Kitchen cookbook.
Our introduction to Vino Paradiso and sparkling wines from here and abroad went by too quickly and left us all with a warm glow. Thanks to Timothy Nishimoto, Vino Paradiso and Cole Danehower.
- Reported by Laura Barton
