On April 30, 2012, the Portland Culinary Alliance hosted a finger-lickin’ dinner extravaganza to welcome our guest-of-honor, the award-winning author, journalist, cooking teacher, and TV personality, Steven Raichlen. We gathered a large crowd of 60 BBQ enthusiasts at Irving Street Kitchen for a multi-course tasting menu of various styles of ribs from around the world.

Hosting chef Sarah Shafer teamed up with B.J. Smith of Smokehouse 21 to take on the world of ribs. Their offerings included beef, pork, and lamb ribs done in a variety of preparations that exemplified how this beloved cut of meat is prepared in countries across the globe—Mexico, India, Morocco, Thailand, and the American south. Each chef prepared two recipes from Raichlen’s latest book, Best Ribs Ever, as well as one style of their own creation. Yep, six varieties of ribs, plus their accompanying side dishes, delivered to the table on large platters for passing.

The evening began with a book signing and cocktail party—this was our attendees’ chance to talk ‘cue with the master himself. Bull Run Distillery, Chehalem Winery, and BridgePort Brewery all generously sponsored this event with BBQ-friendly beverages, including two special cocktails created by the Irving Street Kitchen bar staff in honor of our event—one made with Bull Run Distillery’s newly-released Pacific Rum and another with their Temperance Trader Bourbon Whiskey.

When we sat for dinner, Raichlen chatted a bit about his prolific career as a BBQ and grilling aficionado, but as the meat was delivered to the table, no one could resist digging in, including Raichlen, who said that this Portland Culinary Alliance dinner was one of his best book tour events that he can recall.

After a primer on oyster anatomy and the 5 varieties, slurping ensued. We began with mild and creamy Petit Pacifics—their plump shape is good for frying, baking, and in stews. On to well-branded Kumamotos—their size and flavor are great for beginner oyster eaters. The tiny Olympia oysters were firm with a briny finish, followed by one of my favorites of the day—the Belon. These flat oysters from Maine were crisp and salty. Another favorite was the salty, sweet Chelsea Gems from Eld Inlet, Washington. Raised in a buoy bag system, these oysters form a uniform shape with a deep cup that holds extra liquor! The tasting moved on to the briny Hama Hama oysters grown on rocky beaches, then to Blue Pool. Tasting those two side by side was a testament to the effect of the growing method—Blue Pool are the same species as Hama Hama and also from the Hood Canal, but take on entirely different shape and flavor profiles.

Next, we tasted the briny, fruity sweetness of Hog Island oysters from Northern California, then Kusshi- considered a “designer oyster” thanks to their unique growing process. Followed by the salty and briny Pleasant Bay oyster from Massachusetts on the ocean side of Cape Cod. Tip: oysters with more contact to open ocean are brinier! The Caraquet from New Brunswick was, in a word, savory. Seaweed salad-esque. And for our last little bivalve, Bluepoint from Long Island Sound. This oyster was creamy and salty with a subtle sweet aftertaste.

Curious students asked Ethan and Tobias about the issue of wild versus farmed oysters and in fact, oyster farming is very beneficial to the environment (unlike a lot of other aquaculture). Oysters serve as a natural filtration system in the waters, which keeps water clear and allows sunlight to penetrate to the bottom, which encourages sea grasses to grow and provide cover for other fish, mollusks, and marine life, ultimately increasing ocean biodiversity and lowering nitrogen levels in the surrounding atmosphere. So order another dozen! Eating oysters is as sustainable as it is delicious.

—Caroline Ford

What a great evening at Yakuza Lounge! In addition to providing a wonderful networking opportunity, this month’s PCA social hour had a special focus, thanks in large part to Yakuza’s manager, Kyle Lovell.

If you are unfamiliar with Yakuza Lounge, you only need to know three things. (1) Yakuza Lounge brings the Japanese izakaya tradition to Portland, where small plates and sake are shared between diners. (2) The food is delicious. And (3) the Zen-like ambiance and knowledgeable staff make spending time here a pleasure.

Back to Kyle, who arranged to have Briana Seeley (of Young’s Market Company) conduct an introductory tasting for our gathering. Briana did much more than pour three different kinds of sake. She explained some of sake’s appeal to modern drinkers. (Did you know that it is naturally gluten and sulfite free?) And she gave us the key to judging a sake’s quality—polish ratio!

The polish ratio refers to the amount of rice left after the grain has been milled: the lower the ratio, the higher the quality. Of course, none of this insider knowledge does you any good if you don’t recognize the Japanese terms that you’ll find on a sake bottle. But with patience and humor, Briana walked us through the (arcane to American ears) terminology; where different grade levels intersect with various sake styles. So now, we have a shot at deciphering the label on a bottle of premium sake when we encounter terms like:

• Genshu: undiluted
• Nigori: unpressed, cloudy with rice sediment
• Junmai: rice only
• Ginjo: 60% polish ratio
• Daiginjo: 50% polish ratio

Briana and Kyle served us three wildly different sakes that really helped us to understand how much there is to learn about this amazing libation. The Taiheikai Tokubetsu Junmai,  Kannihonkai “Ring of Fire” Junmai Genshu, and Murai Family Nigori Genshu ran the gamut from floral to earthy to slightly sweet. In each case, we had a chance to correlate what our taste buds were experiencing with the facts we had just learned.

Of course, the evening was even more enjoyable because we paired our sake with Yakuza’s tasty small plates. The hamburger was especially popular, but my personal vote goes to the Black Cod on Parsnip Purée…yum!

All in all, not a bad way to spend a Thursday night.

—Luisa Simone, Web Designer at Tadpole Graphics

I feel very lucky to have spent the rainy Sunday afternoon of February 12, 2012 at the Oregon Culinary Institute, sipping perfectly executed cocktails while listening to esteemed bartender, blogger, and cocktail innovator Jeffery Morgenthaler discuss the history of carbonation and the pioneers behind effervescence.

For bartenders, there is a growing interest in fully-carbonating cocktails, rather than just adding a carbonated soda to the other “flat” ingredients for effervescence. One of carbonation’s biggest fans is Jeffery Morenthaler, bar manager of the Clyde Common. Jeff recently started bottling and serving fully-carbonated cocktails in split-sized Champagne bottles. They are the lateset addition to his bar program.

We started the day with his new take on a classic, a fully-carbonated Tom Collins: Hayman’s Old Tom gin, lemon, sugar, and soda. We gathered and nibbled on cheese, which paired perfectly with the tart and refreshing Collins. This drink embodies the art of simplicity.

We all took our seats and attention was directed to the center of the room while Jeff began his presentation, discussing the solubility of carbon dioxide in water. We learned that carbon dioxide is more soluble in cold water than warm, and to prove this fact, a warm bottle of seltzer was shaken and then opened, exploding for all to witness. I had always wondered why my seltzer detonated only half the time. After a washcloth and another round of drinks were procured, we continued our journey into the history of carbonation.

The next drink we were served was the classic French 75. While most of us have ordered this delightful and easy-to-drink carbonated gem, this particular rendition, comprised of Beefeater gin, lemon, sugar, and Cremant de Loire, stole the show. The fully-carbonated version was sleek and sexy. It was a flavor explosion as every bead of carbonation slowly enveloped our tastebuds.

Our group was particularly interested in how the size of the bubbles are “created” in carbonated waters and beverages. Many of us admitted to shopping for a particular type of mineral water purely based on bubble size. Jeff explained the size of the actual bubble was the result of nucleation sites, a term used to describe localized budding of a specific thermodynamic phase. In science, bubbles of carbon dioxide nucleate after the pressure is released from a container of carbonated liquid. Nucleation can vary by glass, particle, and environment.

Lastly we enjoyed our final carbonated libation, the Americano: Campari, Cinzano Rosso vermouth, and water. The Americano is a classic café cocktail served in Italy. We watched as Jeff made the drink, step-by-step, using the iSi Twist and Sparkle, an easy to use, affordable home carbonation system. It’s a perfect balance of bitter and sweet, a perfect way to end an afternoon of low-alcohol refreshers created with this new technique for carbonation.

—Elizabeth McElligott

About In Good Taste:
In Good Taste is Portland’s premiere cooking school with classes geared to all skill levels — from beginning students to those with true kitchen savvy. Featuring local products when possible, the kitchen team’s passion for sustainability paves the way for classes that provide a platform for education and enjoyment. The flagship location at 6302 SW Meadows Road in Lake Oswego, offers a variety of culinary experiences both in a private contemporary setting and in venues around Portland, including hands-on classes for kids and teens, culinary boot camp and corporate team building. For more information visit www.ingoodtastestore.com. You can also receive class information and event updates on Facebook at In Good Taste Cooking School and on Twitter @ingoodtastepdx.

February 27, 2012 at 6:00 pm
In Good Taste, 6302 SW Meadows Road, Lake Oswego, OR  97035
Price: $100 (fully inclusive of meal and wine)
Click here for the class menu.

May 13, 2012

The Blending Workshop is part of the Forklift Winter 2012 series, which will take guests behind the scenes with Portland’s culinary artisans to places like bakeries, roasters and distilleries where they will have a chance to roll up their sleeves and learn about the craft before sitting down to a three-course dinner paired with beer, wine or spirits.

May 13, 2012 at 4 p.m.; $60 per person
Bull Run Distillery with Wildwood Restaurant chef Dustin Clark
Location: Bull Run Distillery distillery at 2259 NW Quimby

April 29, 2012

The Backstage Bakery Tour is part of the Forklift Winter 2012 series, which will take guests behind the scenes with Portland’s culinary artisans to places like bakeries, roasters and distilleries where they will have a chance to roll up their sleeves and learn about the craft before sitting down to a three-course dinner paired with beer, wine or spirits.

April 29, 2012; $60 per person
Piper Davis and the Grand Central Bakery team with dinner by Dolan Lane of clarklewis
Location: Grand Central Bakery production facility, 4001 N. Fremont Street

Come sip and swirl with 24 neighboring wineries during the popular springtime event, the North Willamette Wine Trail. The 4th annual wine-touring weekend takes place Saturday, March 31 and Sunday, April 1, 2012 from 11-4 each day. Guests will make stops at multiple wineries where they will be greeted with sips of new releases, barrel and reserve label tastings, and gourmet food pairings. North Willamette Wine Trail Weekend also provides a unique opportunity to meet the winemakers, participate in wine exploration activities, tour barrel rooms and learn what makes a stellar wine and food pairing. Each winery will offer a unique hands-on wine activity that educates guests about the art of winemaking, such as exploring the terroir of the North Willamette wine region, delighting in a newly released Pinot noir or Pinot gris, learning about Sake or even dipping their own wine bottle wax closure!
Tickets:  $45 per person for a ticket for the full weekend, or $35 per person for Sunday only. Designated driver tickets are available for $10. In addition to complimentary tastings, ticket holders will receive a Wine Trail Kit with a commemorative logo wine glass, a reusable wine tote (for all your purchases), and coupons and discount offers for partner restaurants, hotels and wineries. Even the designated driver receives a gift: a stainless steel water bottle in place of the wine glass! For tickets and more information, please visit www.nwvintners.org.